I Love/Hate My Hairdresser

In my continuing war looking for the new trend for hair and beauty, I found this atrticle at
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/carolyn-bucior/hairdresser-love-hate_b_998016.html?icid=maing-grid7%7Cmain5%7Cdl13%7Csec1_lnk3%7C103167


I love it. Hope you like it too!

How much simpler could my instructions have been? Before I fully relaxed in Wanda's black Naugahyde chair, I showed her a photo torn from More magazine and said, "This length." For emphasis, I placed my right hand, palm down, mid-neck, and wagged it horizontally.
But when the snip, snip snip of her stainless steel scissors quieted, my hair fell mid-ear, not mid-neck. I looked down on C-shaped pieces of hair, sprawled irretrievably on the floor of Wanda's bustling little corner salon ... a salon with windows facing the street ... glass that surely would not withstand the force of my car ramming into them.
I've had memorable cuts with Wanda over the past 20 years, but often our 45 minutes together end like this. For weeks, I'm angry and tormented. Then I return.
I wish I knew how to quit her.
Do hairdressers even listen when we tell them what we want? Why not just walk in the salon, write a check for $40, $60, $120 then take a nap or eat a corndog while they do whatever scratches their itch? Why not mail them a check every eight weeks and cut our own hair with those shears we use to cut raw chicken?
In August, U.S. Surgeon General Dr. Regina M. Benjamin announced that hairstyles can undermine women's physical health; some of us don't want to restyle after exercising and hence, skip the workout. Some men -- including Peter Sagal, the otherwise keenly insightful host of NPR's Wait Wait... Don't Tell Me!, and and Jeff Stier, a senior fellow at the National Center for Public Policy Research were baffled by this leap from hair to health. (Proving that at least one topic unites liberals and conservatives.) Well, I got news for you two guys, who I suspect take your cues about hair and exercise from NFL players. It's more complex than Benjamin suggested.
Can a hairstyle really impact a woman's physical health? I'll tell you this. When I looked in Wanda's mirror after this past haircut, I nearly had a heart attack. Meekly, I said, "It's kind of short." Brazenly, Wanda defended herself. Stupidly, I tipped her. To ensure I won the Stupidest Client Award, I bought some of her overpriced shampoo and rubbed off the price so my husband wouldn't suffer a heart attack as well.
Here is the analogy in my world of freelance writing.
Client: I hired you to write a 1,000-word article on hamstring injuries and you've handed in a poem on hemorrhoids!
Me (brazenly): And both conditions start with the letter h.
Client (meekly): Here's your payment, with a bonus. Can I buy your pencil for $8?
Sagal and Stier, turn to any woman you know and ask her if she agrees with this simple statement: When my hair looks good, my entire life seems better.
The morning after my most recent haircut, I was ornery over breakfast with my husband because my hair hadn't grown back.
"What's wrong?" he asked, so innocent, so clueless.
"I hate my hair."
"It's cute," he insisted and my despair evaporated. Until five minutes later when we met in the bedroom. His eyes circled my head like an airplane over JFK. "It is kind of short."
"Augh!"
"I'm just teasing," he said. But was he? His mouth said yes, yes, yes. His face said no, no, no. Why should I care? Didn't I learn anything from Gloria Steinem other than women with thick, straight, blonde hair got one of the biggest genetic breaks in human history?
After my husband left for work, I walked by mirrors and tried various attitudes, gauging how my vision interfaced with my self-belief system. The first time, I saw someone who resembled a 51-year-old boy. I recoiled and gave myself a pep talk. "You have a spunky haircut and look adorable!" Then I pretended someone just told me a joke, laughed, and stepped again before the mirror. A little better.
I called my husband at his office to apologize for my breakfast behavior. "I'm in a bad mood about my hair," I said. "And I have a headache," I added for good measure.
"How do you feel now?" he asked sweetly.
"I feel ugly."
"You're beautiful on the inside."
"That's just another way of saying I'm ugly on the outside!"
Now I count the days until my haircut will grow out. "In three weeks, my hair won't be hideous ... By fall, my hair will look OK." While polar icecaps melt, and people wonder if this is the end of the world as we know it, these will be my deepest thoughts.
And yet, I know I'll find myself sitting again in Wanda's black Naugahyde chair, the Brokeback Mountain of hairstyling. "I've been listening to this for years!" my husband says, exasperated. "Every time you come back from a haircut, you complain that you hate your hair. That Wanda never listens. Then you go back!"
He's right. Wanda once gave me a mullet. I was miserable for months, even saw other hairdressers on the sly, and then, like a yo-yo, returned to her.
I know perfectly well I'm not alone here. So Surgeon General Benjamin, do you have any suggestions for my emotional well-being? Consider it a public service to women and their husbands.

No Lye vs Lye Relaxer

I found this interesting article at:
http://blackhair.about.com/od/permsrelaxers/p/lyevsnolyerelaxers.htm

The Great Lye vs. No-Lye Relaxer Debate:

When it comes to chemically straightening your hair, there can be some confusion about which products to use, especially when you're bombarded with shelves of boxes and promises of silky, flowing hair at every turn. Especially confusing can be knowing the difference between lye and no-lye relaxers. Here's the deal on chemical relaxers and how to find out which is best for you.

About Lye Relaxers:

The main, active ingredient in a lye-based relaxer is sodium hydroxide. The pH level is higher in a lye relaxer than a no-lye relaxer (approximately 12-14 for lye, 9-11 for no-lye, whereas your hair should generally have a pH of around 4-5). Does this higher pH make a lye relaxer worse for your hair?

A lye relaxer works to break down the hair's bonds more quickly, which is good because you often experience more scalp irritation with this chemical; the faster it works, the sooner you can rinse it out. However, these tend to rinse cleanly and quickly with a good neutralizing shampoo follow-up.

About No-Lye Relaxers:

The main, active ingredient in a no-lye based relaxer is calcium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide. Although the pH level of a no-lye relaxer is typically lower than a lye-based one, no-lye relaxers are often associated with dryer hair due to potential calcium buildup. One of the major reasons someone may prefer a no-lye relaxer is if her scalp is sensitive, as the chemicals in this type of relaxer can be milder on the scalp. This doesn't mean that it's better to use on children or that the chemicals cannot burn you (they can).

Unfortunately, people sometimes make the mistake of leaving a no-lye relaxer on the hair for too long, leading to dry, dull hair due to over-processing. To remove calcium buildup, try a clarifying shampoo once a month or so to remove dull deposits. Since clarifying cleansers are often drying, a deep conditioning treatment should be a regular part of your hair care routine.

Bottom Line:

The bottom line is that all relaxers contain chemicals that break down the hair's natural bonds in order to straighten it and that one relaxer doesn't fit everyone's needs. It's best to consult with a professional to determine what your particular needs are when it comes to relaxers. And no, you cannot apply a lye relaxer over hair that's been processed with a no-lye relaxer (and vice versa)! However, you can apply a different relaxer to new growth if your current straightener isn't giving you the results you want. It's not recommended to constantly switch relaxer types or brands. Once you find the relaxer that works for you, it's best to stick with it until or unless it stops.

What exactly is Sulfate free Shampoo??

Doing my research about the new trend, sulfate free shampoo, I found this at:

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-sulfate-free-shampoo.htm

A sulfate-free shampoo is a shampoo that does not contain sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). SLS is also known as sodium laurilsulfate or sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS or NaDS0). It is a popular chemical in commercial hygiene and cleaning products. The chemical is particularly useful in applications where the removal of oily residues is needed. While the sulfates used in hygiene products have not been shown to be carcinogenic, the chemicals can irritate the scalp, excessively strip essential oils, and cause hair to be dry.

People with sensitive skin, or who are allergic to sulfates, may wish to avoid these chemicals. A sulfate-free shampoo would be much gentler on the scalp, and not cause an allergic reaction— unless, of course, the user is not allergic to any other ingredients. Many users report that their hair is much softer and less dry when using a sulfate-free shampoo.

When first using a sulfate-free shampoo, most people often feel as if their hair is not getting clean because sulfates are responsible for creating that thick, rich lather that many people desire when shampooing. This can take some getting used to because the hair will not feel as dried out, and some users may associate that stripped feeling with being clean. The hair will be clean, but will be softer and silkier.

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Ingredients that are desirous in a sulfate-free shampoo are glucosides and gylcerine. Glucosides are derived from plants like sugar cane. Glycerine, also an organic compound, is a byproduct of animal and vegetable oils and is a colorless, thick liquid. Baby shampoos uses deyl glucoside because it is very mild. Coco glucoside, an additive derived from fruit sugar andcoconut oil, is also a popular glucoside additive used in many skin care products.

SLS is a powerful surfactant. The term surfactant is actually a shortened form of surface active agent — a chemical agent that lowers the surface tension of liquids, to allow them to be spread more efficiently. It basically stabilizes a mix of oil and water through surface tension stabilization.

Shampoos that contain sulfates, and even those that do not, are surrounded by controversy. There are reports that claim sulfates are dangerous. There are also claims that sulfate-freeshampoos and conditioners merely replace the missing sulfates with extra ingredients and other potentially dangerous chemicals. The onus is on the consumer to check the labels of anysulfate-free products, and look for natural ingredients.

Sulfate-free beauty products are generally more expensive, and are becoming more readily available. Beauty and bath products that are green — products that do not contain any unnatural chemicals that may be harmful to the environment — have become very popular.Sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners are in greater demand because of environmental concerns, as well as for health reasons.

Keratin Hair Treatment Pro and con

Desperate looking to get the right answer for my clients on whether or not the Keratin Treatment is bad for their health, I found this article on line ( http://www.webmd.com/healthy-beauty/features/keratin-hair-straightening-treatments) hoping it could help people to make their mind about keratin treatment.

Keratin Hair Treatments: What to Expect

New keratin-based treatments may save you hours each day.

By Denise Mann
WebMD Feature

Reviewed by Laura J. Martin, MD

When friends think of Susan Greene, a 38-year-old lawyer originally from Staten Island, N.Y., they instinctively picture her trademark kinky, curly hair.

And that is why they do a double-take when they see her today.

Like legions of women (and some men) who have spent decades struggling to get their curly, frizzy, or coarse hair to behave, Greene opted for keratin hair straightening, which is the latest -- and some say greatest -- incarnation in the hair-straightening or relaxing arena.

There are a host of brand names available, including Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy by Coppola, Global Keratin Complex, the La Brasiliana treatment, Brazilian Keratin Treatment, the Brazilian Blow Out, and Brazilian Hair Straightening.

"None of the 'miracle treatments' I have tried over the years lived up to their hype," Greene says. "In my hours of Googling the treatments, I kept reading how it was life changing. So I went to the salon reluctant, but ready to pay a small fortune for what I hoped would not be another disappointment."

She wasn't disappointed. "I have the soft, wavy, silky hair that I have always dreamed of having," Greene tells WebMD. "I make random people feel it and probably talk too much about how much I love my hair. "

These Brazilian keratin-based hair-straightening techniques are all the rage.

But are they really life-changing and at what cost? Are there any downsides or risks? What about the formaldehyde that some of these products contain? Here are answers.

What Is Keratin Hair Straightening?

Most of today's popular straighteners are keratin-based. Keratin is a protein found naturally in your hair. It can fill in gaps in the hair cuticle that are cracked, dry, or damaged. It is mixed with varying levels of formaldehyde, and applied to the hair, and then sealed in with the heat of a flat iron. The formaldehyde helps hold the keratin molecules together, which straightens your hair and keeps it that way.

The results of keratin-based treatments last about two to 2 1/2 months. Keratin treatments take about 90 minutes or longer, based on the length of your hair. The price also rises and falls with your hair's length, but averages around $300.

Color -- whether highlights, low lights, or merely covering up the gray -- can be done on hair that has had keratin-based straightening treatments. In fact, some hair care experts recommend getting the treatment right after your color so that it seals the color in as well.

Maintenance

There is some downtime with these treatments -- meaning not washing your hair for three or four days afterward, because the solution takes time to work, says hair stylist Henri Borday of New York's Mizu salon and the corporate educator for hair care company Global Keratin.

Greene, for one, could care less about the no-shampoo downtime. "You can't wash it for 72 hours after the treatment, but so what?" she says. "That is a small price to pay for months of fabulous hair."

There is also some -- but not a lot -- of maintenance involved. This basically involves washing your hair with sodium sulfate-free shampoos to avoid prematurely stripping the treatment from your locks.

That is nothing compared to what Dina Khiry, a 24-year-old New York social media executive with thick, curly hair, did before she got her first keratin straightening treatment.

"If I wanted my hair straight, I would have to wash my hair, blow dry it or let it air dry for a long time, and then it took me at least an hour or two to flat iron it," Khiry says. "I could never just wash it and go because I would end up with a huge head of frizzy hair."

But that was then. Now, "I can just wash my hair, blow dry it a little, and it will dry nice and straight," she says."It takes me about 20 minutes, which is a big difference from my usual 3-hour hair routine. Love it!"

That's what Borday is talking about. "They cut down on your blow dry time by 40% to 60% and eliminate the frizz factor. You could walk out in moist or light rain and your hair won’t change," he says. These treatments can make everyday a good hair day."

Formaldehyde Factor

A suspected carcinogen, formaldehyde is a colorless chemical compound with a pungent and irritating odor. Exposure to formaldehyde has been linked to health problems, including general malaise, runny nose, sore throat, headache, itching, and irritated eyes.

Exactly how much formaldehyde is used in these products depends on the brand and blend. In general, anything less than 2% formaldehyde won't be as effective, says Bonnie Marting, a nurse practitioner and the director of medical aesthetics at Anushka Spa, Salon & Cosmedical Centre at Cityplace in West Palm Beach, Fla.

"Ask about the strength and if they say it doesn't have any, that is probably not true," she says. Some formaldehyde-free products actually contain formaldehyde derivatives with the same set of risks.

The more formaldehyde, the stronger the treatment, but the worse the odor, says hair stylist Henri Borday of New York City's Mizu salon and the national director of education for the Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy by Coppola.

"Most companies that put out keratin treatments use safe levels, but the problematic part and where these treatments got a bad rap was when salons were mixing their own to incorporate more formaldehyde," he says.

On Oct. 8, the FDA stated that it has been notified by some state and local organizations of reports from salons about problems associated with the use of Brazilian Blowout. "Complaints include eye irritation, breathing problems, and headaches," the FDA states. The FDA is investigating; so is the Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA), which is looking into concerns raised by hair salon owners and workers.

On Oct. 7, Health Canada (the Canadian health department) warned Canadians that it had found an unacceptably high level of formaldehyde – 12% -- in the Brazilian Blowout Solution. That’s just one of the products that Brazilian Blowout makes; others aren’t known to have high formaldehyde levels, according to Health Canada.

Health Canada says it has received “complaints of burning eyes, nose, and throat, breathing difficulties, and one report of hair loss associated with the use of Brazilian Blowout Solution. Health Canada encourages people to seek medical attention if they’ve had bad reactions to the product but states, “There is no cause for concern for consumers who have used this product and not experienced any reactions.” Health Canada is also asking stylists to immediately stop using the affected product.

Dermatologist's View

Neil Sadick, MD, a New York dermatologist and clinical professor of dermatology at WeillCornell Medical College, has no problem with keratin-based treatments.

What about reports of hair breakage after keratin straightening treatments?

"The hair breakage has nothing to do with the treatments and everything to do with the flat irons that are used to dry and seal the hair afterward," he says. "Some stylists may use a flat iron that is way too hot and is scorching hair and making it break off," he says.

Sadick is no fan of the flat iron -- no matter who is using it.

"When you use a flat iron, there is a potential for mechanical damage and that is a major cause of hair loss and breakage in young women," Sadick says. "Anything that heats up or puts tension on the hair shaft will lead to breakage and can permanently damage hair growth cells if used recurrently."

Who's a Good Candidate?

Stop the treatment and flat ironing if you notice breakage, Sadick says. Other people who should think twice and/or get clearance from their dermatologist before a keratin treatment include anyone with an inflammatory scalp condition such as psoriasis or seborrheic dermatitis, Sadick says .

That said, there aren't that many other people who can't benefit from these treatments, Sadick says.

"Keratin is more of a restorative treatment and even if you have a good hair type, it still strengthens the hair shaft and makes your hair more resilient," Borday says.

"The best candidate for the keratin treatment is someone in a more humid climate who is tired of the frizz and can’t control their hair and wants predictability," says Anushka's Marting, who gets the treatment herself every couple of months.

Going natural (before and after)

It is Possible to go natural, healthy and beautiful at the same time?

Yes it is!! Today we have so many tools that can help us in our daily war of looking good. As we all know, hair is the frame of our faces. It is our decision to go natural and wear the hair the way it is or we can fight against Mother Nature. It doesn’t matter which one is your preference, you will need some work and maintenance to have your hair looking the way you want it. Hair is one of those things that make us unique. That’s why it is so important to use our hair as a tool to identify ourselves and if we could do this with no harm to our body or to our atmosphere, Why not?

Some people ask can kinky hair be straightened with no relaxer and still look movable, shiny and silky? Yes and I can prove it with a Dominican Blow-Out. As mentioned before we have way so many tools and products. Just to mention a few, today we have Blower, Flat Iron, Marcel Iron, Pressure comb, and a lot of Heat protector, etc. Now on day we are so blessed to have all of that without being a Hollywood star like on the past. We have privileges that most of our ancestor did not have. The science of beauty is not a secret any more; we can find it everywhere, on TV, books and internet. It is so reachable that anybody can have access to the techniques, trends and much more without having to spending a fortune.

In conclusion if you cannot afford to go to a beauty shop so often to get the right treatment for your hair, a least get the information you need according with your type of hair and try to maintain it and style it as healthy as possible without being embarrassed by the look of your hair. Every woman has her own beauty that most of the time comes from inside out. Be yourself!

Amy